Relaxing is the common chemical process used to straighten hair by reshaping bonds.

What really straightens hair, and why relaxing is the term you’ll hear the most

If you’ve walked past a salon chair and watched a client go from curl to sleek in a single appointment, you’ve seen a chemical process in action. The kind that makes long-lasting straightness possible isn’t just heat or a fancy brush. It’s a chemical routine that changes the hair’s structure. And in the world of hair design, the term you’ll hear most for this method is relaxing.

Relaxing is the common chemical process used to straighten hair. It’s not merely about smoothing or brushing out tangles; it changes the actual bonds inside the hair. Think of each strand like a tiny rope made of protein fibers. Those fibers have bonds that determine whether the hair is curly, wavy, or straight. A relaxer uses a chemical solution to break some of those bonds and then reshapes the hair as it reforms. The result? Hair that dries in straight or near-straight form and stays that way for weeks to months, depending on the hair and maintenance.

A quick map of what each method does (so you don’t mix them up)

• Relaxing (the chemical option): Alters the hair’s internal bonds so it can stay straight after washing and styling. Long-lasting results, with proper aftercare.

• Smoothing: A broader term that covers techniques to reduce frizz and smooth texture. It can involve keratin treatments or other products, but it doesn’t permanently rearrange the hair’s bonds.

• Flat ironing: A heat-styling method. It straightens the hair temporarily by flattening each strand with high heat. Any curl or wave usually returns once the hair is washed.

• Blow drying: A drying and shaping technique. It uses air and heat to set a style but doesn’t change the hair’s structure.

Let me explain why relaxing is the right term here. Smoothing sounds gentle, almost cosmetic, but it isn’t necessarily changing the hair’s internal chemistry. Flat ironing and blow drying are about heat and technique, not about restructuring the fiber. Relaxing, by contrast, is a chemical process that redefines how the hair holds its shape. That distinction matters in a salon, where clients ask for results that last and require careful aftercare.

How the science works, in plain language

Here’s the thing you’ll want to keep straight for the licensing exam, and for real-world work, too: hair is made up of a cuticle layer on the outside and a cortex inside. The cortex houses the protein bonds—especially the disulfide bonds—that give hair its shape. A relaxer uses a thiol-based chemical solution (commonly ammonium thioglycolate or related formulations) to break those bonds. Once the bonds are broken, the stylist reshapes the hair into its straight form. Then a neutralizer or stabilizer helps reform the bonds in the new, straight arrangement. The end result is a strand that holds its straight form until new growth comes in and cycles start again.

That’s the core idea. But there’s more to it in practice:

• Patch testing and strand tests are standard. You’re checking for sensitivity and ensuring even processing.

• The processing time is tightly controlled. Over-processing can damage the cuticle and leave hair brittle; under-processing won’t give the straight look you want.

• Aftercare matters. Hydration and protein balance help maintain strength after the chemical change. A well-rounded routine often includes bond-building products and deep conditioning.

Two quick comparisons you’ll hear in salons

• Relaxing vs smoothing: If a client wants a semi-permanent straight look with a growth pattern, relaxing is the go-to, assuming suitability. If they want smoother hair with fewer frizz issues but not a structural change, smoothing treatments or products are often chosen.

• Relaxing vs heat styling: Heat styling can be amazing for a special occasion, but the look goes away after washing. Relaxing delivers longer-lasting straightness, with the caveat that you’re maintaining with proper aftercare and periodic touch-ups as new growth appears.

Who’s a good candidate for a relaxer?

Not every head of hair is a perfect match for a chemical straightening service. Here are the key factors you’ll consider as a stylist in Alaska, where hair texture runs the spectrum and climate can change how hair behaves:

• Hair health and history: If the hair is color-treated, heavily bleached, or has a history of breakage, you’ll be extra cautious. A thorough consultation helps decide if relaxing is appropriate or if a gentler path should be taken.

• Hair elasticity and porosity: Low-porosity hair can resist chemical uptake, while highly porous hair might process more quickly. You’ll tailor the product choice and timing accordingly.

• Scalp condition: Any active irritation or dermatitis? That’s a no-go for chemical processing until the scalp is calm.

• Growth patterns and maintenance plans: Clients need to understand that touch-ups are part of the long-term plan. New growth will retain its natural texture, so the straight look isn’t permanent on the entire head.

In Alaska, safety isn’t optional; it’s the baseline

Salon professionals follow strict safety and hygiene standards. You’ll hear about proper ventilation, correct handling of chemicals, and a careful patch test. Alaska licensing rules emphasize client safety, product handling, and record-keeping. If you’re working with relaxers, you’ll be mindful of:

• Ingredient guidelines: Some formulations are more conservative with scalp-safety and odor control. You’ll choose products that balance efficacy with minimized irritation potential.

• Storage and labeling: Chemicals in the shop have to be stored properly, with clear labeling and expiry tracking.

• Client counseling: Part of the job is to explain what the product is doing, how to care for hair after the service, and what to watch for in the days following.

In real-life salons, the environment matters too

Alaska’s climate can stretch hair in different directions. Dry air, humidity, and seasonal changes affect how hair holds moisture and shape. You might find clients with curl patterns flipping when they move from an indoor, heated space to a chilly outdoor environment. A good stylist helps clients manage this by balancing conditioning, use of humectants, and a smart maintenance routine that fits their lifestyle.

A few practical tips you’ll actually use

• Do a thorough consultation. Ask about styling routines, color history, and any chemical services already on the hair.

• Patch test any relaxer formula. Even small sensitivities can flare into a bad reaction if not checked.

• Time the processing carefully. Follow the product’s guidelines and your salon’s standard operating procedures.

• Neutralize and re-balance. Don’t skip the neutralizing step; it’s essential for stopping the chemical action and stabilizing the new structure.

• Plan for aftercare. Recommend moisture-rich conditioners, protein treatments, and gentle cleansers. Remind clients that chlorine, pool water, and saltwater can affect the results.

• Schedule maintenance. Growth around the hairline will show the original texture first, so book touch-ups to keep the straight look uniform.

Real-world language you’ll hear in the chair

• “Is this strong enough for my texture?” a reasonable question, and the answer depends on the formula and the processing time.

• “What about color after relaxing?” Many clients choose to color after relaxing, but you’ll need to space chemical services to minimize stress on the hair.

• “How long will this last?” The answer varies with hair type and upkeep, but many clients enjoy weeks to months of smoother, straighter hair.

• “Can I still swim or sweat a lot?” Guidance on washing, conditioning, and protecting the hair helps clients stay happy with the result.

A short glossary you can rely on

• Relaxer: The chemical solution used to alter the hair’s internal bonds to achieve permanent straightening.

• Thioglycolate/Thio-based relaxer: A common chemical base for relaxers that targets disulfide bonds in the hair.

• Neutralizer: A product that stops the chemical processing and re-hardens the hair’s bonds in the new shape.

• Virgin application: The initial application on unprocessed hair.

• Retouch: The application on new growth to refresh the straight look.

Bringing it back to the bigger picture

Understanding the difference between relaxing and other straightening methods isn’t just trivia. It’s part of delivering a safe, satisfying salon experience. Clients come in with dreams of straighter, more manageable hair, but they leave with a plan for healthy maintenance and clear expectations about longevity and care. As a professional, you’re balancing science, technique, and customer care in a single chair. And in Alaska, where climate, texture, and traditions mingle, the right approach can feel especially personal.

If you’re studying the essentials of hair structure, chemical changes, and salon safety, you’re building a foundation that serves every client who sits in your chair. Relaxing may be a single process in the spectrum of hair services, but it anchors a lot of what makes a salon experience feel expert and trustworthy. The chemistry is real, yes—but so are the conversations, the reassurance, and the careful hands that guide the transformation from curly or frizzy to beautifully controlled straightness.

Bottom line: the term you’ll hear most for the chemical process that straightens hair is relaxing. It’s a controlled chemical rearrangement of bonds, designed to deliver lasting smoothness. And for those of us who love the craft, that blend of science, artistry, and care is what keeps hairdressing endlessly interesting.